Isaan has made the news! (for better or worse)

Here's an article from today's New York Times that talks about some of the same issues I addressed in my last post:

http://www.nytimes.com/2010/05/24/world/asia/24thai.html?ref=global-home

an example of why I should not write history textbooks; a characteristically long-winded approach

Let be start by saying that, right now, things in Ubon and throughout most of Thailand are quiet-- eerily so. There is a twice extended curfew in place here, banning anyone from being outside between the hours of 9 p.m. to 5 a.m, and we are still under emergency rule, meaning that there cannot be gatherings of more than five people, that media that "incites panic or violence" can be limited by the government and that soldiers and police can use more force (read: shooting on sight) against protesters. And despite that fact that I live deep, deep in Red Shirt country, Red Shirts are no longer showing themselves anymore. Business are closing at 6 or 7 o'clock, making it difficult to get dinner at any sort of normal hour, and the jogging, aerobics, and soccer and basketball games that happen around the city come dusk.  After 9 o'clock, when our curfew begins, the streets are literally silent-- no motor bikes zooming by, no sounds of drunken laughter coming from the shops on the street, no dinging of bicycle bells-- as everyone is locked indoors.  There are soldiers around, too, during that day and at night, blocking off streets, sitting outside gas stations and at noodle shops, a quiet but noticeable presence.

That is not to say that this curfew is without merit, though: the charred, ghost-like remains of what was our city hall-- a beautiful structure three blocks from my apartment that overlooked Ubon's central park, and held the archives and history of this city-- serves as a constant reminder that while the movement here has been quieted, it has not been quelled.

As with all things political, this red vs. yellow vs. whoknowswhatcolors conflict is extremely complicated. It dates back far before my time here, so, like everyone else, I've been playing historical catch-up. Admitedly, my perspective is more red than yellow, not because I support one or the other (really, I don't!), but because of my location in the country; I haven't really heard the yellow perspective, because, well, there just really aren't many around these parts.  I will not assert an opinion about "how the yellows feel," because I really do not know. With that in mind, here is a very brief synopsis of the situation as I understand it:
  

in 2006, a there was a military-led coup d'état that was put in motion to oust the then-prime minister Thaksin Shinawatra on the claim of corruption.  Coup d'états are no foreign thing here in Thailand: there have been seven coups in since 1971, and three failed coups (see here for a complete list). And while this coup was peaceful, it was definitely not constitutional, and took out of power a highly controversial and extremely popular leader just a month before national elections. During his time in office, Thaksin implemented programs that give more assistance to farmers/rural poor than had ever been given before, making him wildly popular in the northern and northeastern areas of the country.  He is an unlikely hero of the rural poor (he owns a European football club and is worth hundreds of billions of dollars), but a hero nonetheless, and the Red Shirts have not forgiven the current government for his removal. It's important to note that none of the people in government now were (openly or admittedly) involved in the coup; elections were held, and the current Prime Minister, Abhisit Vejjajiva, was elected, though this is somewhat disputed by the UDD's. Everyone is accusing everyone else of skimming off the top, of corruption, of neglect; frankly, I have no idea who has done what, and don't really think that there is any way of knowing.  In terms of spewing propaganda and "facts," it's a tit-for-tat battle between these two parties, and, as always, the "truth" is nearly impossible to discern.

There have three major waves of protests against the current government lead by the National United From of Democracy Against Dictatorship (UDD, or "red shirts") since the 2006 coup: in 2008, 2009 and, the largest, in 2010. The current protests (I use the word current careful, for while there are no active protests at the moment, this blogger obviously does not think they can yet be talked about in past tense) began in early March after Thaksin was found guilty for various money laundering crimes.  Thousands of people, mostly from the north and the northeast, made their way to Bangkok in the middle of hot season to protest what they saw as more than an unjust verdict: for them, it was emblematic of an unjust government. I believe it is at this point that the UDD's really moved beyond Thaksin. They set up the now notorious Red Shirt encampment, and made make-shift homes.


IN OTHER WORDS, this storm has been brewing for quite some time.  I was politely told in November, when I wore yellow to school on a Monday (yellow has traditionally been worn on Monday to show love and support for the king; it is also incidentally the color of the current political party) that "I wouldn't wear yellow here if I were you"-- far before any of the publicized rallies began. The Red Shirts believe that the current government is corrupt, unjust, suppressive, dictatorial and, above all, illegitimate; the yellow shirts believe that the reds are merely a pawn in Thaksin and his allies' schemes, that they've been duped by the Red Shirt leaders, and then there are thousands of Thais who stand in the middle.  Let me make this clear: This movement has moved passed Thaksin.  While some Red Shirts are still fighting to get Thaksin back in government, I'd say that the majority (here, at least) don't necessary want or expect for Thaksin to be in, but want the current government out.


So, in the eyes of most Red Shirts, all that the latest government crackdown did was give them more reason to loathe the government.  Now, in addition to seeing them as a body who gives money to the rich and a pittance to the poor, they are also a party who kill innocent, peaceful protesters, doing whatever they like, whenever they like.  Both parties are growing increasingly factioned, as well-- there are pro-loyalists and anti-loyalists, yellow shirts who are pro-Abhisit and yellow shirts who are anti-Abhisit, red shirts who are for violence and those who are against it... and everything in between.

In the past week and a half, I have not been living in the Thailand I have come to know and love (see: above photo).  I have seen burning tires and cars, trucks full of red-shirted, masked protesters and belligerent voices blasted from radios and megaphones. Thai's are a reserved and quiet people, and this conflict has not changed that, so garnering specific information has been difficult.   I do know that my most beloved colleagues and friends here, the kindest and most peaceful people I know, have told me that "a wave is under the water," that the fight has not yet been fought, and that they, too, hate the government-- now more than ever.  I'm not sure what to expect, just how big this wave will be, or if and when it will hit.  This conflict has devastated this divided country, both reds and yellows alike; let's hope that from this mutual sense of loss and sadness, a peaceful middle ground can be found, and that my predictions and fears will prove sorely misguided!!

With love for and from Thailand,

Anna

Ps. I took all of these photos here in Ubon; the first two are of a protest I uhh stumbled upon while walking to dinner last week (I really had no idea it was going on-- a causality of not being able to understand any news source here), and the last is of tires that were lit on on fire outside of city hall last weekend. I was safe in a car when I took that one.

we interrupt this broadcast...

i know i was in the middle of telling you about all the awesome gallivanting i've been doing, but i want to write a quick word about the unrest that is happening in thailand at the moment.  i'm in the middle of composing a more thorough and polished piece about my experiences/feelings/etc., but for now please know that i am safe and promise to be vigilant. it's unclear now what direction this is going in-- hopefully we are at a climax point and things will start to lose momentum soon, but because it is such a grassroots movement, it's extremely difficult to ascertain how much money, support and power the red shirts have.  i live deeeeeeep in red shirt country (as my colleagues joke, i'm constantly surrounded by red shirts, as the teachers whose desks are behind, in front of and next to mine support the cause), and i really just can't tell how far this will go.  but again, i'm being careful and looked after by fulbright and my school and do realize the gravity of the situation. more than anything right now, i feel truly devastated; it is tragic to watch a country i have come to love so much spiral into such dispair. so i ask you: please keep thailand in your thoughts, prayers and wishes; may it return to peace soon.

with love from and for thailand,
anna

adventures in wonderland(s)

i finished my first semester of teaching (!) in mid-march, packed up my bags, and hit the road for a two-and-a-half months adventure. a few pictures to wet you apetite; more to come later this week when my internet is (hopefully) being less dysfunctional:

first, i headed down south to koh tao to learn how to scuba dive. i got both my open water and advanced licenses (....though i planned to only get the first license, i ended up staying a few more days to get my second. oops?), and fell in love with the sport. the night dive was my favorite-- so peaceful! sarah, center, was my instructor, and mike, right, was the only other person in my open water group. 


next, i went up to chiang mai to cosa, a home for girls who have sexually exploited, abused, or are at risk for trafficking in the sex industry. there, myself and 5 other fulbrights taught dance, painting and yoga classes. we even indulged full-on high school style and took the girls for a bowling and pizza day at a mall in the city. thanks to all those who donated to the workshop-- it really was a wonderful success. for more on cosa, go to: http://www.cosasia.org/

next up.......... india! brace yourself for the next post.